London's South Bank



Friday, August 1st

I got the day off work to do some final sight-seeing with Brielle before she flies back to the US over the weekend. We wandered all along the South Bank, a beautiful wide pedestrian boulevard that runs beside the Thames. We walked all the way from the London Eye to Tower Bridge, a considerable distance. We’d originally planned to meet at Westminster Station, but a security alert suddenly closed the station, so after some shuffling around (“Hey, I’m at Embankment now—where are you?” “Aw man, I just went through Embankment, I’m at Waterloo now”) we finally met at Waterloo. This actually happens fairly often—you’re merrily riding along and all of a sudden you hear a garbled message that means you will be disembarking at a spot sometimes quite far from your desired destination. Usually it’s not a big deal, but since cell phones don’t work deep underground, it can take awhile to figure out new plans if you’re trying to meet someone.

That said, from where I exited from the Northern line at Waterloo, I had to go completely outside, walk half a block, cross a busy street, enter and walk the entire length of the absolutely massive Waterloo train station to its opposite side to find the exit for the Jubilee line where I met Brielle. This proves to me that no, it wasn’t just me when I had so much trouble with the station last time; it really is just that confusing.

But we reached the South Bank and London Eye at last, with considerably less difficulty than our previous effort. The lack of pouring rain definitely helped. The day was gorgeous—mostly sunny with occasional clouds and a cool breeze. I cannot tell you how fantastic it felt to be wandering along the riverside on a lovely afternoon when I should have been stuck at a desk indoors. Yes!



A wide assortment of tourists and Londoners were enjoying the weather. We passed couples taking photos of each other, elderly people sitting on benches, teens on skateboards and bicycles, students relaxing in the grassy areas, even children riding a small carousel that played cheerful carnival music. I, meanwhile, took lots and lots of photos of the waterfront. I seem incapable of restraining myself.





To my delight we came across a used book sale, with no fewer than 4 massive tables filled with books sheltered underneath a railway bridge. I immediately set about searching for any Agatha Christie titles: Megan had found a pair for us to take to Croatia, so it was my turn to do the same for Turkey. And what did I find first? A book on Michigan! A Field Guide to Michigan State History, to be precise, proudly displayed right here in the heart of London. And right next to it? The American North Woods. Yeah Michigan!



Brielle helped me locate the cheap Agatha Christies and I got a fun-looking pair. Next we wandered into the Tate Modern, one of London’s most famous museums dedicated to modern art and located directly across the river from St. Paul’s. The museum is huge and this past spring several artists put up drawings along the outside walls that are mind-boggling in their size.




Inside we explored all the exhibits on the main floor and . . . well. I do like a lot of modern art; I think abstract paintings and sculpture can be very arresting visually and wondrously creative. But come on: a lot of it is just weird. One crazy Dutch artist had soaked a piece of canvas in blood, tacked it up, then declared it art. ….Yeah. On the one hand, I can see how that really is a different, creative thing to do, that perhaps no one else may have thought of. On the other . . . dude, you didn’t even paint anything. You just stuck up a piece of bloody canvas and announced that it meant something and was Art—not just any art but Art with a capital A. Seriously?

So yes. I am less than impressed with a great deal of modern art; but then, I have never made any claims toward understanding art in the first place. What I found really cool, however, was that we stumbled across one of Francis Bacon’s triptychs in the surreal section. This is noteworthy in that I recognized both art and artist because I had just written about him for one of the magazines—I had to read up on his life and works quite extensively. Otherwise I would have had no idea who he was; indeed my first thought when I got the assignment was “Francis Bacon? Like Sir Francis Bacon?” (Yep, my background is definitely in history, not in art.) Since beginning work with all these different magazines I’ve encountered this regularly: I have to research and write so much about cultural people and places and events that it’s really increased my knowledge of the world. It’s always a welcome surprise when I come across something in real life that I’ve written about—and then I get to feel super smart, heh.

We ate lunch at a yummy Greek restaurant just past the Globe Theatre. Since my Greek flatmates sadly don’t cook hardly at all—or at least, they don’t cook any Greek food – I figured this was my chance to taste some traditional Greek dishes, and sprang for the souvlaki. At a small replica of Sir Francis Drake’s ship we were forced to leave the river and wandered along various narrow alleys and streets until we could find the water again; along the way we passed London Bridge. Finally we came upon Tower Bridge, the first time I’d ever seen it on two visits to this country. It is absolutely massive and very, very cool. I’d thought the bridge was very old (like, centuries) but apparently it was only completed in 1894 to cope with the growth of East London. Interesting.





Upon crossing the bridge we found ourselves directly at the Tower of London, for which the bridge is named. We were intending to go inside and view the Crown Jewels but unbeknownst to us last tickets are sold at 5 p.m. and we arrived at 5:15. Oops. Oh well! We still had a good time wandering all around the ancient fortress—I hadn’t known it was so old that William the Conqueror built the original tower. The funny thing is that walking toward it Brielle was like, “Okay, so tell me about the Tower of London.” I mean literally phrased like that: "Tell me." Because . . . since I was a History major people think I know everything, I guess? Which of course I don’t, but I still get asked to become an unofficial tour guide all the time. What is really amusing is that usually I can think of some random fact or little tidbit about whatever person or place we’re discussing, so . . . yeah. I dredged up what I knew about Richard III and the Princes in the Tower, and how both Lady Jane Grey and Anne Boleyn were imprisoned there before they were beheaded, and how Queen Elizabeth I herself was placed in the Tower and almost executed by her sister Queen Mary. The Tudors were pretty bloodthirsty, that’s for sure.





Our tour of the South Bank at an end, we headed for Brick Lane and Meraz CafĂ©, our favorite Indian restaurant just off Brick Lane. They seriously make the best chicken korma I’ve ever tasted. I think I’ve been to the restaurant nearly every single week I’ve been in London – sometimes twice a week – and I always get the same thing. They don’t even have to give me a menu. The waiters are just like “Korma and rice, right?” or even better: “The usual?” Heh. After dinner Brielle and I joined our magazine coworkers (now that they were finally done with work!) for drinks to celebrate the end of the week. It was quite the fitting ending to our time together in London.


5 comments:

Unknown said...

Would a head full of random facts fare better on "Jeopardy" or "Who Wants to be a Millionaire?"

Carolyn said...

So I know it's a controversial thing... but I absolutely LOVE the Gherkin!

And I'm so glad you post of your adventures. Yay!

Karen said...

Oh, mother. Will you ever stop trying to get me on game shows? Heh.

Karen said...

Carolyn: I adore the Gherkin. It's such a nifty looking building and you can see it from so many different places around the city. I think the Brits were divided at first but they're so proud of it now. Every TV show and photo I've seen showing the London skyline has featured the Gherkin prominently.

I was confused as to why it was nicknamed the Gherkin, mostly because I had no idea what a gherkin was. Then Megan informed that gherkins are pickles. I...don't really think the Gherkin looks like a pickle, but apparently the British do.

I'm so glad you like my little blog. I fell a bit behind but there's more to come!

Megan said...

I think Karen should play Jeopardy. Or maybe the Weakest Link because everyone loves her and no one would vote her off.